Making a home far from home

Steaming mugs of chai are brought out for visitors as the tangy scent of pumpkin leaves cooking in peanut oil waft from the kitchen in the back of a first-floor Grand Street flat.

Two women emerge from the upstairs apartment, shy and smiling, each with a baby propped on a hip. Small children peek out from behind a doorway.

The only sound is the creak of floorboards. There is no TV or telephone. These Karenni refugees from Myanmar -- formerly known as Burma -- can't afford them. Everyone walks barefoot on the shiny hardwood floors, a cultural choice rather than an economic one.

Three men step into the living room after shedding shoes and winter coats in an entryway. They have walked their children home from nearby Giffen Memorial Elementary School. Snow is a new concept for everyone, along with electricity and indoor plumbing. The men sit in silence on plastic lawn chairs in the living room, chewing betel leaves that stain their teeth crimson.

They speak no English and a halting translator can bridge only part of the communication chasm. They've been catapulted from an 18th-century existence into the 21st century almost overnight after arriving in Albany over the summer from a refugee camp on the Myanmar-Thailand border.

"They are really resilient and happy people. Despite all they've been through and the fact that they have next to nothing, they're always smiling," says Debbie Taylor, a volunteer with the U.S. Committee for Refugees and Immigrants who helps the Karenni families negotiate an unfamiliar culture.

Last year, the Albany field office of USCRI helped resettle about 100 Burmese refugees, including members of Myanmar's Karen and Karenni ethnic groups. Another 100 Burmese refugees are expected this year. A few hundred Burmese refugees have come to Albany in the past five years, with the largest number in Rensselaer. Many work in a Sealy mattress factory in Green Island.

There are now 17 Karenni families living along Grand Street near St. Anthony's Church at the corner of Madison Avenue. They join a long line of newcomers trying to gain a toehold in the city's South End. The Karenni children attend city schools and struggle with English as a second language. As the kids gain proficiency, they'll teach English to their parents at home, although some of the adults have begun taking English language classes.

A similarly steep learning curve was traversed by previous generations of immigrants. At the end of the 19th century, the Grand Street neighborhood became home to immigrants from Italy. It thrived as an Italian enclave into the 1950s and beyond. In 1969, counter-culture folks bought at auction abandoned row houses and established an alternative school, the Free School, on Elm Street just off Grand. Some of the Burmese children attend the Free School, whose members donate money from fundraising meals to USCRI and help the Karenni families in other ways.

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